Introduction to Painting Vanari Miniatures
The hobby of miniature painting has seen a massive surge in India over the last few years. Whether you are in a bustling metro like Mumbai or a quiet town in Kerala, the lure of the tabletop gaming world is hard to resist. Among the most beautiful models to grace the tabletop are the Vanari, the core infantry of the Lumineth Realm-lords from Warhammer Age of Sigmar. These elegant, elven warriors are known for their tall banners, shining armor, and intricate details. However, for a beginner or even an intermediate painter, the prospect of painting a Vanari Auralan Warden or Sentinel can be quite intimidating. This guide is designed to break down the process into manageable steps, specifically tailored for hobbyists in India who are navigating this craft.
Why Vanari Models Are Unique
Vanari models represent the pinnacle of discipline and grace. They are characterized by clean lines, sharp geometric patterns, and a palette that often involves bright whites, gleaming golds, and cool blues or teals. Unlike the rugged textures of an Orc or the dirty metals of a Chaos Warrior, Vanari require a steady hand and a bit of patience to maintain their pristine look. In the Indian context, where dust and humidity can sometimes interfere with our painting environment, achieving that smooth, ethereal finish requires specific techniques and a bit of environmental management.
Setting Up Your Hobby Workspace in India
Before you even touch a brush to a Vanari miniature, you need a functional workspace. Given the climate in India, there are a few extra things to consider. You want a space that is well-lit, preferably with a daylight LED bulb, as warm yellow lights can distort your perception of color. Since many of us deal with dust, keeping your models in a closed plastic container when not being worked on is a smart move.
Essential Supplies for Indian Painters
While global brands like Citadel, Vallejo, and Army Painter are the gold standard, sourcing them in India can sometimes be pricey. However, many specialized hobby stores in cities like Bangalore and Delhi now ship nationwide. For brushes, if you are just starting, you do not need the most expensive Kolinsky sable right away. Good quality synthetic brushes from local art stores, such as those from Camlin or Hibiscus, can work for basecoating, but you will eventually want at least one high-quality detail brush for the fine filigree on Vanari armor.
Step 1: Preparing and Priming the Vanari
Preparation is the most underrated step in painting. Vanari models come on plastic sprues and need to be cut out carefully using side cutters. Once cut, you will notice mold lines. Use the back of a hobby knife to gently scrape these away. If you leave these lines, they will be very obvious once the paint is applied, especially on the smooth surfaces of Vanari shields.
The Challenge of Priming in Humidity
Priming provides a surface for your paint to stick to. In India, the high humidity during the monsoon or the extreme heat of summer can cause spray primers to go grainy. If you are using a spray can, try to prime on a dry day with moderate temperatures. If the weather is too unpredictable, consider using a brush-on primer like Vallejo Surface Primer. For Vanari, a white or light grey primer is highly recommended because their color schemes are usually very bright. A black primer will make it very difficult to achieve a clean white or yellow finish.
Step 2: Applying the Basecoats
Once your primer is dry, it is time to lay down the basic colors. This is known as basecoating. For a classic Vanari look, you will likely be working with white or off-white for the robes, silver or gold for the armor plates, and a secondary color like turquoise or blue for the plumes and cloth accents.
Achieving a Smooth White
White is notoriously difficult to paint. The trick is to never start with pure white. Instead, use a very light grey or a cream color as your base. Thin your paint with a little bit of water on a palette. In India's dry heat, paint can dry on your brush very quickly, so using a wet palette (which you can easily DIY with a plastic container, a wet paper towel, and parchment paper) is a game-changer. Apply two or three thin coats rather than one thick coat. This ensures you do not obscure the fine details of the model.
Painting the Metallic Armor
Vanari armor is ornate. Use a high-quality gold or silver metallic paint. Ensure your brush is clean before switching to metallics, as the tiny flakes can ruin your non-metallic colors. Apply the metal paint to the helmet, greaves, and chest plate. If you are painting Auralan Wardens, pay special attention to the long pikes; the metal tips should be sharp and clean.
Step 3: Shading and Adding Depth
After basecoating, your model might look a bit flat. Shading, or using a 'wash', is how you create shadows in the recesses. For the gold areas, a sepia or brown wash works wonders. For the silver, a black or dark blue wash is ideal. When it comes to the white robes, do not use a black wash, as it will make the model look dirty. Instead, use a highly diluted light blue or grey wash specifically in the folds of the cloth.
The Pin-Washing Technique
Instead of slathering the whole model in wash, try 'pin-washing'. This involves taking a fine brush and dropping the wash only into the cracks and crevices. This keeps the flat surfaces of the Vanari armor looking clean and bright while still providing the necessary contrast to make the details pop.
Step 4: Layering and Highlighting
Now that you have shadows, you need to bring back the brightness. Go back over the raised areas with your original basecoat colors, leaving the shadows in the recesses. This is called layering. Finally, perform an 'edge highlight'. This involves using the side of your brush to apply a very light color (like pure white or a bright silver) to the very sharpest edges of the model.
Focusing on the Face and Plumes
The plumes on Vanari helmets are iconic. To make them stand out, use a bright color like a vibrant teal or a rich crimson. Use a wash to settle into the strands of the plume, and then drybrush a lighter shade over the top. For the faces, since these are elven warriors, you want a pale, smooth skin tone. A simple flesh basecoat followed by a light tan wash and a quick highlight on the cheekbones and nose is usually enough for tabletop quality.
Step 5: Basing Your Vanari
A model is not finished until it is based. For Vanari, who hail from the shining realm of Hysh, you might want a base that reflects a magical or pristine environment. You can use local sand, painted a light ochre and drybrushed with cream, to simulate a desert or savanna. Adding a few tufts of static grass or even small flower tufts (available at hobby stores) can give the model a sense of place. In India, you can often find interesting natural materials like fine sand or small stones in your own backyard—just make sure to wash and dry them before glueing them to your base.
Final Protection: Varnishing
After all that hard work, you want to protect your miniature. Given the dust and frequent handling during games, a varnish is essential. A matte varnish is usually preferred for the cloth and skin, while you might want to keep the metallics shiny. You can buy spray varnishes, but again, be careful of the humidity. A brush-on matte varnish is a safer bet for the Indian climate and provides a sturdy protective layer that will keep your Vanari looking great for years.
Conclusion
Painting a Vanari army is a marathon, not a sprint. While the details may seem overwhelming at first, following a consistent process will lead to a stunning collection on your shelf or gaming table. The Indian hobby community is growing every day, and there is a unique satisfaction in seeing a unit of these gleaming warriors fully painted and ready for battle. Remember to keep your paints thin, your brushes clean, and most importantly, enjoy the meditative process of bringing these miniatures to life. Whether you are painting for competition or just for fun with friends, every Vanari you finish is a step forward in your artistic journey.
What is the best way to paint white on Vanari robes?
The secret is to start with a light grey or off-white base coat and apply multiple thin layers. Never use pure white as a base; only use it for the final edge highlights to ensure the model has depth and does not look like unpainted plastic.
Can I use local Indian art paints for miniatures?
While you can use high-quality acrylics like those from Camlin for certain tasks, hobby-specific paints like Citadel or Vallejo are recommended for miniatures. They have finer pigments which allow for smoother finishes on small surfaces without obscuring the fine details of the Vanari sculpt.
How do I deal with paint drying too fast in the Indian heat?
Using a wet palette is the most effective solution. It keeps your paints moist for hours. Additionally, adding a drop of acrylic retarder medium can slow down the drying time, giving you more flexibility for blending and layering.
Do I need to prime my models before painting?
Yes, priming is essential. Without it, the paint will likely peel or flake off the smooth plastic of the Vanari miniature. A light-colored primer like grey or white is best for the bright color schemes usually associated with these models.
How can I protect my painted Vanari from dust?
Once finished, apply a clear varnish to protect the paint. For storage, use a display case with a good seal or keep your models in foam-lined plastic containers to prevent dust accumulation and physical damage during transport.
