Mastering the Art of Wig Making at Home
In recent years, the hair industry in India has seen a massive shift. Whether it is for fashion, covering hair loss, or preparing for a grand desi wedding, wigs have become an essential accessory. However, buying a high-quality, natural-looking human hair wig can be incredibly expensive, often costing tens of thousands of rupees. This is where learning how to build a wig comes in. By making your own wig, you not only save money but also get a custom fit and style that suits your face shape and personal preference perfectly.
Building a wig might seem like a daunting task reserved for professional stylists, but with the right tools and a bit of patience, anyone can do it. In this guide, we will walk you through the entire process, from sourcing the best Indian hair bundles to the final styling touches, ensuring you can create a masterpiece right at your kitchen table or vanity.
Why You Should Build Your Own Wig
Before we dive into the technical details, let us look at the benefits. Firstly, customization is the biggest advantage. When you buy a ready-made wig from an online store or a local shop in markets like Sarojini Nagar or Crawford Market, you are stuck with a standard cap size and density. When you build your own, you control the volume, the length, and exactly where the parting sits.
Secondly, the quality of hair in India is world-renowned. By sourcing raw Indian Remy hair directly, you ensure that your wig lasts for years rather than months. Finally, there is a sense of accomplishment in wearing something you created with your own hands. It allows for creative expression that a store-bought product simply cannot match.
Essential Tools and Materials You Will Need
To get started, you need to gather your supplies. Most of these items are easily available on Indian e-commerce platforms or at local beauty supply wholesalers. Here is your checklist:
- Mannequin Head: A cork canvas block head is preferred over plastic because you can pin the wig cap to it easily.
- Wig Cap: Look for a breathable mesh or dome cap. Ensure it matches your head size (usually small, medium, or large).
- Hair Bundles: For a full look, you will need 2 to 3 bundles of hair. For Indian hair, look for 'Double Drawn' hair for thickness from root to tip.
- Lace Closure or Frontal: This provides the natural-looking scalp area at the front.
- C-Curve Needles and Nylon Thread: Nylon thread is stronger and less likely to snap than regular cotton thread.
- T-Pins: To secure the cap and hair tracks to the mannequin head.
- Scissors and Tweezers: For cutting threads and plucking the hairline for a natural look.
- Measuring Tape: To ensure the wig fits your head circumference perfectly.
Step 1: Measuring and Preparing the Base
The foundation of a great wig is the fit. Start by measuring the circumference of your head. Wrap the tape measure from your front hairline, behind your ear, around the nape of your neck, and back to the start. Use this measurement to select the right wig cap. If the cap is too big, the wig will slide; if it is too small, it will be uncomfortable in the Indian heat.
Once you have the cap, place it on the mannequin head. Use T-pins to secure the cap at the forehead, temples, and the nape. Make sure the cap is stretched evenly but not over-extended, as this can distort the shape of the wig once you take it off the mannequin.
Step 2: Securing the Lace Closure
The closure is the most important part because it sits at the very top. If you are a beginner, start with a 4x4 lace closure. Place the closure at the front-center of the wig cap. Ensure it sits slightly ahead of the cap's edge to allow for a seamless blend with your forehead later.
Pin the closure down tightly. Using your C-curve needle and nylon thread, sew the closure onto the cap using a basic stitch. Ensure your stitches are small and close together. A common mistake is sewing too loosely, which causes the closure to buckle or shift. Always start sewing from the center and move toward the sides to keep the fabric flat.
Step 3: Mapping the Hair Tracks
Before you start sewing the bundles, it helps to map out where the hair will go. This is especially useful if you are using different lengths (for example, 12, 14, and 16 inches). The longest hair should go at the bottom (the nape), and the shortest should go at the top near the closure.
Use a white eyeliner pencil or chalk to draw curved lines on the wig cap from one side to the other. These lines will act as your guide for sewing the wefts (the tracks of hair). Keep the lines about an inch apart at the bottom and gradually bring them closer together as you reach the top of the head.
Step 4: The Sewing Process
Now comes the labor-intensive part: sewing the hair bundles. Start at the very bottom of the wig cap. Take your first bundle and align it with the bottom-most line you drew. Use the 'Fold-over Method' when you reach the end of a row. Instead of cutting the track, simply fold it back and continue sewing in the opposite direction. Cutting the tracks can lead to shedding, which you definitely want to avoid.
As you sew, use the 'Loop and Tie' knot technique. Push the needle through the cap and the weft, pull the thread through, and before tightening it, loop the needle through the thread twice to create a secure knot. This ensures that even if one stitch breaks, the entire track won't fall off. Continue this process row by row until you reach the area where the closure is already attached.
Step 5: Filling in the Gaps and Finishing the Top
As you get closer to the top, the space between the rows should decrease. This ensures that the tracks are not visible when the wind blows or when you style the hair. When you reach the closure, sew the final tracks as close to the lace as possible. This creates a seamless transition between the bundles and the closure.
Once all the hair is sewn in, flip the wig inside out. You will see the wig cap material underneath the lace closure. Carefully cut away the excess cap fabric from under the lace. Be extremely careful not to cut the lace itself or the stitches holding the closure in place. This step is what makes the wig look like it is growing from your own scalp.
Step 6: Customizing for a Natural Look
Indian hair is naturally thick, but sometimes the hairlines on closures are too dense to look real. This is where your tweezers come in. Place the wig on the mannequin and lightly pluck a few hairs from the front hairline of the closure. The goal is to create a graduated density, where the hair is thinner at the very front and gets thicker as it goes back.
You can also use a bit of foundation or concealer that matches your skin tone on the lace parting. This hides the tiny knots in the lace and makes the 'scalp' look authentic. If you prefer baby hairs, pull out a small amount of hair at the front and trim it short with a razor, then style it with some hair gel.
Maintenance Tips for the Indian Climate
In India, humidity and dust can take a toll on your wig. To keep your handmade wig looking fresh, wash it at least once every two weeks using a sulfate-free shampoo. Since the hair is not attached to a scalp, it does not receive natural oils, so deep conditioning is mandatory. Use a wide-tooth comb to detangle, starting from the ends and moving upward. Store your wig on a mannequin head when not in use to maintain its shape and prevent tangling.
Conclusion
Learning how to build a wig is a valuable skill that combines creativity with practicality. It allows you to invest in high-quality hair once and create a custom piece that fits your lifestyle perfectly. While the first attempt might take a few hours, the results are well worth the effort. With your new custom wig, you are ready to face any occasion with confidence, knowing you have a professional-grade hairpiece made by you, for you.
What is the best type of hair to use for a wig in India?
Human Remy hair is the gold standard, especially Indian Remy hair. It is sourced locally, meaning it is more affordable than imports, and its texture blends perfectly with natural Indian hair types. It can be heat-styled and colored just like your own hair.
Do I need a sewing machine to build a wig?
No, you do not need a sewing machine. While machines are faster, hand-sewing with a C-curve needle gives you more control over the placement and is much easier for beginners to learn. Most custom wig makers in India still prefer hand-sewing for a more detailed finish.
How many bundles do I need for a full wig?
For a standard look, 2 to 3 bundles are sufficient. If you are using hair longer than 18 inches, you might need 3 to 4 bundles to maintain thickness at the ends. For a short bob style, 2 bundles are usually enough.
How long does a DIY wig typically last?
If you use high-quality human hair and sew it securely, a DIY wig can last anywhere from 1 to 3 years with proper care. You may need to replace the lace closure every few months as it experiences more wear and tear from styling and parting.
Is it cheaper to make your own wig than to buy one?
Yes, significantly. A high-quality human hair wig in a retail store can cost between 15,000 to 40,000 INR. By sourcing the hair bundles and closure separately and building it yourself, you can often create the same quality for half the price.
